SXSW Diary, March 15-19, 2006

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FRIDAY MARCH 17
I'd planned to start my day earlier, maybe catch Dressy Bessy who I love, Billy Bragg, maybe pop in to the Chrissie Hynde interview at the Convention Center, but having gotten in well after 3am, it was late when I regained consciousness. Peter Case's significant other Denise Sullivan (a talented writer, whose last book about The White Stripes: Sweethearts of the Blues I highly recommend) had now joined us at my house. I split before everyone else was up and dressed, tho, because I wanted time to eat at Threadgill's before Magic Christian played at the Burnside Distribution party at 1:40pm on the outdoors stage there. Magic Christian are a band we'd really wanted to get to play at SXSW, but we didn't know how to reach 'em. The band are Cyril Jordan (Flamin' Groovies guitarist/songwriter), Prairie Prince on drums (Tubes, Todd, New Cars), Alec Palao on bass (a British expatriate living in the Bay area who's curated boxed sets by bands we love like The Zombies and the Beau Brummels), and on vocals, Paul Kopf (who puts on the Baypop festival in SF every year).

On Peter Case's fervent recommendation (Peter and Cyril have been talking about doing a part-time band together), I bought their CD last year. Threadgill's outside stage, mere hundreds of yards from where the beloved Armadillo World Headquarters was located (it was razed 4 months before I moved to Austin in 1981) is a really cool place to see live music, and it was a lovely, cloudy cool day. The Flamin' Groovies are one of my favorite bands of all time, and they've never played a show I knew about within 500 miles of anywhere I've ever lived. So this was probably my #1 most anticipated gig. Burnside put out our Ronnie Lane Live in Austin CD back in 2000, and my partner in that, Jim Bradt, was in (unannounced as usual) from Minneapolis, so they were there, along with Peter & Denise, Art and his rockabilly friend Jenny. The set was fantastic, highlighted by both sides of their new single (my favorite song of 2006 so far, "Turn Up The Heat," a 2-song CD single I bought from 'em (why the fuck I didn't get it signed, double doh!). Best $10 I've spent all year (tho my $10 change seems to have blown away in the parking lot when I pulled the single out of my pocket to put it in my car, so lemme rephrase that to best $10 song I've bought all year -- worth every penny, too!). They also played many of the best tracks from their website-only release last year (go here and buy it now! http://www.magicchristian.net), along with a couple of covers, The Stones' "Gotta Get Away" and the Beatles "Things We Said Today." They closed with "Shake Some Action," the Groovies' masterpiece. Manohman, I saw Sal Valentino sing "Laugh Laugh," heard Richie Furay sing all the Springfield's best, and now this! I could've died happy at this point. Lead singer Paul Kopf is a great frontman, very reminiscent of the Chocolate Watch Band's Dave Aguilar in Riot on Sunset Strip. Hopefully next year they'll have a better publicized and attended 'real' SXSW gig. They're on of the best bands around.

Next up was the fabulous Walter Clevenger and the Dairy Kings, a PCP favorite act that I've known about for years since a pal in Houston released Walter's first CD back in the '90s. Clevenger's always been compared to Nick Lowe (done that myself, in fact), and so last fall he released the brilliant Lowe Profile: A Tribute to Nick Lowe, a 2-disc collection of Nick Lowe covers that is song for song terrific. So for this performance, we got a whole set of Lowe originals (and an encore of "Radio Radio" which Lowe produced), with a string of guest artists singing a song apiece, including Ron Flynt (20/20), Terry Anderson, James Intveld, and Rick Shea. It was just a brilliant, brilliant set! I'm so sorry they didn't get in to SXSW. Damned sorry we couldn't have had them at the PCP party, too! It was definitely one of the best sets I've seen in months and months.
I had a whole list of afternoon party stuff to do: The Rite Flyers, Beth Orton, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah, The High Dials ... all bands I was dyin' to see, too. And Ray Davies was at the Convention Center (and sure to have showed up for that performance), playing songs from his new album, showing films, and telling stories. It would've been wonderful. But, you know, I talked to Cyril Jordan for a long time. And to Alec Palao, a great guy with whom I have tons in common musically. I've seen Davies more times than I could readily count with the Kinks, 3-4 times solo, too. I decided on the spot that given a choice between (a) finding parking in the heinous downtown situation and seeing an artist I love but have seen many times and (b) drinking free beer, staying put, and yakking about politics and music with Cyril Jordan, well, hell, that was a no brainer.

Next I went down to the Dog & Duck pub, my local hangout, to see what everything was like at their annual St. Paddy's Day Bash. Our party would be held there the next day with the same layout and equipment and tent, and I wanted to see what was up. Plus I wanted to go decompress after some truly magnificent music. It was a madhouse, probably 3000 folks there when I got there. Decompress? Yikes! You couldn't even walk around. So I sat back with the staff (they're all my friends) and chatted for a bit while they were all dealin' with the mob. Art Fein called, picked me up, and we went to Ruby's and I had some terrific BBQ and home fries, and enjoyed the delightful quiet in a restaurant off the beaten SXSW track.

Then I found pay parking light years distant from 6th Street, knowing in advance I was probably staying around the Red River district and the eastern end of 6th St. that night. Hooked up with Jim Bradt and friends to see Big Al Anderson (former guitarist/best songwriter with NRBQ, now a wealthy songwriter who's in such demand, he seldom plays live himself). Big Al's got a new record coming, so he was promoting it with a 5-piece band including ex-SRV keyboardist Reese Wynans (trading down, I'd say, the last time he was at SXSW, he had Ian McLagan, Steven Bruton, and the late Donald Lindley). We really love Big Al. In fact, last time he was here 10 years ago, when we ran into him walking down 6th St. by himself, we promptly prostrated ourselves and did the Wayne's World 'we're not worthy' bow; Big Al, clearly not having seen the movie, just frowned mightily and stepped quickly around us on the sidewalk. While we were waiting on him to tune, and we were all lined up against the stage, I thanked him for coming back to town to play. He said "aaaaawwwww, it ain't nothin'...." which I found greatly amusing. He and his band (who couldn't be faulted) kicked ass and took names in finest Big Al fashion. I vaguely remember they even played "Me and The Boys." We were all grinnin' and bouncin' around like fools. I LOVE Big Al, and can't wait for his new CD.

Then I walked six blocks over to Stubb's BBQ to see a new young British band, The Subways, whose CD I love. They're a trio, led by a very young skinny guitarist with a proto-Townshend hooter, and a gorgeous blonde bassist with a shag haircut just made for shaking her head without mussin' the hair (which she did to perfection all night). I was one of the last badgeholders to get in, and frankly I was worried I wouldn't. The line was huge and stretched down the block. For my money, The Subways, not the Arctic Monkeys, are the buzz band to watch this year. Their Sire Records debut Young For Eternity is chock full of terrific songs like "I Want to Hear What You Have Got to Say," "Oh Yeah" (not the Ash song, but equally great), and the so-dumb you can't resist it "Rock 'n' Roll Queen." They were wonderful, I loved it, and if this packed audience was partly new to their material, you can bet they've probably bought it by now.

The 11pm slot was very problematic for me. Didn't want to stay at Stubb's (it's a gigantic outside space, no seating every at the back or around the edges, and frankly, I just get bored shitless and antsy there if I see more than one act in a row at that venue, tho as large places go, it's one of the local places I won't hesitate to go to -- like the vibe, and the sound and lights are generally top notch, and you can usually get to where you can see, but it's huge). BUT, most of the bands I was interested in were simply not close to Stubb's. Marah would've been my first choice, but that was at Antone's, would've had to cab over (and cabs simply can't be had at SXSW), and it would likely have been sold out, anyway. And since I wanted to see midnight band, The Magic Numbers, I was kinda stuck. There were still massive lines outside waiting to get in. So I grumpily elected to stay and see Metric. According to the SXSW book, they're from Toronto and have opened for the Stones at the Garden. Hhhmmm. Led by a really pretty slim blonde singer/keyboardist, and a down-front enthusiastic bassist, they were reminiscent of Blondie if they hadn't had Gary Valentine and Jack Lee writing songs for them. Enjoyed the first song, but by three songs in I was getting terribly restless. Walking back to the back and trying to see if they was anything close by I could bail and go see. The audience loved it, I must say, but it was borderline disco to me.

By midnight I was dyin' to be somewhere else, but I really, really wanted to see The Magic Numbers. They must've started 25 minutes late -- the wait was interminable. A quartet of two sets of brother/sisters, once they got going, they were quite good. The audience was polite but a bit underwhelmed, I think. I'd been thinking I'd see 2-4 songs, then go a block up the street to see Chris Stamey and Peter Holsapple, but by the time they started so late, I knew the other band would be on their last song at best before I arrived. At this point, I'd planned on seeing Snow Patrol at the same venue, or maybe heading back towards home and seeing Neko Case at Antone's. But since I had quite a day ahead of me tomorrow, had to be up by 9am, and I'd just spent over 13 straight hours standing and seeing music, I decided to call it a night, and was asleep by 1:30am.

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